I'm renovating a house myself

[Hagbard Celine]

Any good advice is welcome.

[loosecannon]

are you really renovating solo?

What kinda house? How deep is the renovation?

Building materials are outta sight anymore, it is friggin nutz.

Fortunately Home depot is still dirt cheap for everything else.

[Hagbard Celine]

are you really renovating solo?

What kinda house? How deep is the renovation?

Building materials are outta sight anymore, it is friggin nutz.

Fortunately Home depot is still dirt cheap for everything else.

Yep, I'm renovating solo. I bought the house right out of college both as an investment property and out of a need to make my work commute shorter.

It's a 1957 ranch-style house with a full basement. I'm about 45 percent through the renovation--been in the house since last September.

I'm only about $2000 into the renovations. I'm using Lowes instead of Home Depot because I don't have a Home Depot in my area.

Here's a link to my progress. I've got a little slide show and a blog. http://www.myspace.com/lukeprater

[Pale Rider]

Looks like you're in need of some more outlets.

Screw in fuses or circuit breakers?

[Hagbard Celine]

Looks like you're in need of some more outlets.

Screw in fuses or circuit breakers?

I've got circuit breakers. I've already added one when I installed the fridge outlet in the kitchen, ran a line for the dishwasher and ran a new line for my stove.

I am planning to run phone lines, install a bathroom fan and install another ceiling fan in the den (currently there is not lightsource in that room) I may also want to install some new lightswitches in the den. The ones that are there are not adequate--well, I'll have to add new ones if I install another ceiling fan.

The first thing I did when I moved in was clean-out all my outlet and switch boxes and replace the units with new ones. I found a dead mouse in one of my outlet boxes. They were all dirty as hell. I had to whip-out the shop vac.

[Mr. P]

Yep, I'm renovating solo. I bought the house right out of college both as an investment property and out of a need to make my work commute shorter.

It's a 1957 ranch-style house with a full basement. I'm about 45 percent through the renovation--been in the house since last September.

I'm only about $2000 into the renovations. I'm using Lowes instead of Home Depot because I don't have a Home Depot in my area.

Here's a link to my progress. I've got a little slide show and a blog. http://www.myspace.com/lukeprater

EXCELLENT work from what I can see Hag!!! Good job!

Did you seal or coat the floors or just stain?

[Pale Rider]

I've got circuit breakers. I've already added one when I installed the fridge outlet in the kitchen, ran a line for the dishwasher and ran a new line for my stove.

I am planning to run phone lines, install a bathroom fan and install another ceiling fan in the den (currently there is not lightsource in that room) I may also want to install some new lightswitches in the den. The ones that are there are not adequate--well, I'll have to add new ones if I install another ceiling fan.

The first thing I did when I moved in was clean-out all my outlet and switch boxes and replace the units with new ones. I found a dead mouse in one of my outlet boxes. They were all dirty as hell. I had to whip-out the shop vac.


The line you ran for your fridge should have been at least a twelve gage wire on a twenty amp breaker, and if your stove is electric, I assume it's 220 vac. That probably should have been on like a 6/3 on a double 40 amp breaker. Both circuits should be dedicated.

Sounds like your working your ass off, but if you're like me, I enjoy that kind of stuff. I used to own my own business called "The House Doctor". I subcontracted out as an electrician quite a bit too. It's rewarding work. Think of the equity your building in your house.

Great job.

[Hagbard Celine]

EXCELLENT work from what I can see Hag!!! Good job!

Did you seal or coat the floors or just stain?

I used the Olympic brand two-in-one stain/sealant protectant.

[Hagbard Celine]

The line you ran for your fridge should have been at least a twelve gage wire on a twenty amp breaker, and if your stove is electric, I assume it's 220 vac. That probably should have been on like a 6/3 on a double 40 amp breaker. Both circuits should be dedicated.

Sounds like your working your ass off, but if you're like me, I enjoy that kind of stuff. I used to own my own business called "The House Doctor". I subcontracted out as an electrician quite a bit too. It's rewarding work. Think of the equity your building in your house.

Great job.

I used 220-guage cord for my stove and it works great. I cooked delicious pasta on it night before last. I used regular cord for the dishwasher, the same I used for my fridge. I do love working with my hands. I've done everything on this house so far with the exception of the Central heating and air, which I subcontracted out to a client of my dad's. He gave me a good deal on a "used" unit that had been installed in a house that was too big for it. I also do my own car work. I recently did a brake job on my bimmer and saved myself about $600. Self sufficiency is very rewarding stuff and I'm having a ball learning all the stuff for the house.

[Said1]

Wow, I am VERY impressed. Then, you didn't know my ex. Hammer and nails was too hard. :laugh2:

[Pale Rider]

I used 220-guage cord for my stove and it works great. I cooked delicious pasta on it night before last. I used regular cord for the dishwasher, the same I used for my fridge. I do love working with my hands. I've done everything on this house so far with the exception of the Central heating and air, which I subcontracted out to a client of my dad's. He gave me a good deal on a "used" unit that had been installed in a house that was too big for it. I also do my own car work. I recently did a brake job on my bimmer and saved myself about $600. Self sufficiency is very rewarding stuff and I'm having a ball learning all the stuff for the house.


See now... I have new respect for you, and I hope that in future we can even disagree with this same amount of restraint.

And if you ever have any questions about home improvement, construction, vehicle repair, I'm a treasure trove of information. Don't be afraid to ask.

I took a University of Wisconsin extension course in Auto Engine Mechanics, a sixteen week course in four and got an A-. I later went to Madison Area Technical College and got a degree in Auto Mechanics. Four years ago I completed Motorcycle Mechanics Institute course in Harley Davidson and got every award for excelence the school offers. I've wrenched, fixed and built stuff all my life. You're right. It's fun and rewarding, and I know my shit when it comes to mechanics... :D

[glockmail]

Any good advice is welcome. Develop a budget and when your wife/ girlfriend wants to "upgrade" everything show it to her and ask here where the cash is coming from.

Oh- and get a permit before you do anything. When you sell it that issue will be on the disclosure form. Be nicy nice with the inspectors and they might give you some tips (maybe not).

[Mr. P]

See now... I have new respect for you, and I hope that in future we can even disagree with this same amount of restraint.

And if you ever have any questions about home improvement, construction, vehicle repair, I'm a treasure trove of information. Don't be afraid to ask.

I took a University of Wisconsin extension course in Auto Engine Mechanics, a sixteen week course in four and got an A-. I later went to Madison Area Technical College and got a degree in Auto Mechanics. Four years ago I completed Motorcycle Mechanics Institute course in Harley Davidson and got every award for excelence the school offers. I've wrenched, fixed and built stuff all my life. You're right. It's fun and rewarding, and I know my shit when it comes to mechanics... :D

Let's talk auto a/c..
I have a problem..I think it's a presure switch. The compresser will not kick on until 21-2200 rpm below that no go. What do you think?

[glockmail]

Let's talk auto a/c..
I have a problem..I think it's a presure switch. The compresser will not kick on until 21-2200 rpm below that no go. What do you think? Drive around in 2nd gear.

:poke:

Just kidding- its probably the automatic clutch.

[Mr. P]

Drive around in 2nd gear.

:poke:

Just kidding- its probably the automatic clutch.

The compressor clutch? Don't say that!

[glockmail]

The compressor clutch? Don't say that! I haven't worked on autos in years. But my guess is you can by a rebuilt unit one for cheap. It sould be an easy bolt-on, then replace the freon. You can also buy some freon replacement over the internet, at least so I've been told.

Or else revert back to 2w40 air conditioning.

[Pale Rider]

Let's talk auto a/c..
I have a problem..I think it's a presure switch. The compresser will not kick on until 21-2200 rpm below that no go. What do you think?

You're low on freon. Have your system checked. It probably has a slow leak. They'll put die in the system, run it, and look for leaks with a black light. If it's a small enough leak, they can put a sealant in with a new charge of freon. And it sounds like it's a small leak, if your compressor still kicks in, then that means there's still enough freon left in your system to kick on the compressor, but it's low.

[Mr. P]

You're low on freon. Have your system checked. It probably has a slow leak. They'll put die in the system, run it, and look for leaks with a black light. If it's a small enough leak, they can put a sealant in with a new charge of freon. And it sounds like it's a small leak, if your compressor still kicks in, then that means there's still enough freon left in your system to kick on the compressor, but it's low.

Since my first post I did add a can of 134..still the same though 21-2200 rpm before it kicks on. When it does it's good and cold. I'm afraid to add more for fear of overcharging..what do you think..? One more 1/2 can maybe?

[loosecannon]

The compressor clutch? Don't say that!

There is a clutch built into the pulley on the compressor. Easy to replace and fairly cheap.

[Hagbard Celine]

I'm putting in outside floodlights on all four corners of my house so what I've done is go in the attic and run wire from the front left corner of the house, to the back left corner, across the back to the back right corner and up to the front right corner. I want to install a light switch to control all four lights in the middle of the left side of the house. I want to piggy-back the new wire and switch off of an existing switch. My question is, how do I do it? I have a rough idea of what to do, but I like to know exactly what I'm doing before I do it for obvious reasons.

The original switch actually bridges two wires. Each wire has a black and a white wire (no ground--the wires are too old for that.) When I run my new wire, that'll make three white wires, three black wires and a ground. I'll have to put all these wires onto two switches while simultaneously keeping the connection between the original two wires and getting power to the new wire. The original switch was set up as follows: The white wires were taped together and the black wires went into the switch.

[glockmail]

I'm putting in outside floodlights on all four corners of my house so what I've done is go in the attic and run wire from the front left corner of the house, to the back left corner, across the back to the back right corner and up to the front right corner. I want to install a light switch to control all four lights in the middle of the left side of the house. I want to piggy-back the new wire and switch off of an existing switch. My question is, how do I do it? I have a rough idea of what to do, but I like to know exactly what I'm doing before I do it for obvious reasons.

The original switch actually bridges two wires. Each wire has a black and a white wire (no ground--the wires are too old for that.) When I run my new wire, that'll make three white wires, three black wires and a ground. I'll have to put all these wires onto two switches while simultaneously keeping the connection between the original two wires and getting power to the new wire. The original switch was set up as follows: The white wires were taped together and the black wires went into the switch.

Sounds like a fire waiting to happen. Seriously. I wouldn't add on to a switch that has already been added on to. Especially if there is no ground. Everytime it rains you run the risk of having current flow down along the house siding. Not only is it dangerous, but it will run your meter. Plus, floodlights can be a significant load, as most of theose babies are 150w each. I had three fixtures, two bulbs each (900W) on one switch on a new house, and when I worked the switch you could hear it spark. I switched the lamps to compact flourescent floods (yeah, they make them) and reduced the overall wattage so it is no longer a problem. The compacts take a while to warm up in cold weather but they give a nice even light within a minute or so.

My suggestion is to put in a new circuit, and go back to the circuit breaker box. If the house is so old it has fuses then I'd get an electrican to put in a new modern panel.

At a bare minimum I would piggyback off an existing grounded outlet. Find a little used outlet and put the switch directly above it. Use an "old work" box, and when you get the hole cut in the wall for the new box, take the old outlet out, and fish a new wire from it to the new hole in the wall directly above. You can use the new cable itself for this as the distance would only be about 4 feet and within the stud bay. The only way that you can screw this up is if you have trouble getting through insulation, so best to choose an inside wall if one is available.

Another piece of advice is to buy a $4 book at Lowes in the electrical department called something like "basic electrical wiring". I use mine all the time.

[nevadamedic]

If you were a Conservative I would tell you to buy off the person who comes out to do the inspections, but since your a Liberal that means your to cheap. :laugh2:

[Hagbard Celine]

Sounds like a fire waiting to happen. Seriously. I wouldn't add on to a switch that has already been added on to. Especially if there is no ground. Everytime it rains you run the risk of having current flow down along the house siding. Not only is it dangerous, but it will run your meter. Plus, floodlights can be a significant load, as most of theose babies are 150w each. I had three fixtures, two bulbs each (900W) on one switch on a new house, and when I worked the switch you could hear it spark. I switched the lamps to compact flourescent floods (yeah, they make them) and reduced the overall wattage so it is no longer a problem. The compacts take a while to warm up in cold weather but they give a nice even light within a minute or so.

My suggestion is to put in a new circuit, and go back to the circuit breaker box. If the house is so old it has fuses then I'd get an electrican to put in a new modern panel.

At a bare minimum I would piggyback off an existing grounded outlet. Find a little used outlet and put the switch directly above it. Use an "old work" box, and when you get the hole cut in the wall for the new box, take the old outlet out, and fish a new wire from it to the new hole in the wall directly above. You can use the new cable itself for this as the distance would only be about 4 feet and within the stud bay. The only way that you can screw this up is if you have trouble getting through insulation, so best to choose an inside wall if one is available.

Another piece of advice is to buy a $4 book at Lowes in the electrical department called something like "basic electrical wiring". I use mine all the time.

Ok, so instead of piggy-backing off of the switch, you recommend just adding a new breaker altogether. That's definately a more sound idea than I had. I think that's what I'll do. I have experience installing breakers from when I redid my stove and washingmachine/refridgerator wiring so it'll be no problem. Thanks. What is the recommended wattage for a floodlight breaker?

[glockmail]

Ok, so instead of piggy-backing off of the switch, you recommend just adding a new breaker altogether. That's definately a more sound idea than I had. I think that's what I'll do. I have experience installing breakers from when I redid my stove and washingmachine/refridgerator wiring so it'll be no problem. Thanks. What is the recommended wattage for a floodlight breaker? Most residential lighting circuits only need to be 15 amp and 14 gauge wire.

[Hagbard Celine]

Most residential lighting circuits only need to be 15 amp and 14 gauge wire.

Is it safe to go over that recommendation or is just overkill or is it a moot point? Will it diffuse the current and make it weak to go over that guage?

[glockmail]

Is it safe to go over that recommendation or is just overkill or is it a moot point? Will it diffuse the current and make it weak to go over that guage?
You can always go heavier, like to a 12. Any heavier and the wire won't fit in the devices, which will all likely be rated for 15 amps. The important rule is that the fuse feeding the circuit, or breaker, must be rated to at or below the rating of all connected devices.

[glockmail]

Also some guys use a 12 from the breaker to the first device, then switch to a 14. In theory that should not be a problem, even beneficial, however in practice you have the potential to fool the guy who renovates behind you, sees the 12 ga wire and decides to upgrade the breaker to 20 amps and add onto that same circuit.

[Mr. P]

Ask Gunny, I think he's an electrician.

[nevadamedic]

Ask Gunny, I think he's an electrician.

If not, just go upto an electrical supply store and they can tell you. But make sure it's one of those stores that only deal in electrical supplies, they tend to know a hell of a lot more then Home Depot's. Lowe's sometimes can be helpfun but rarley. They also have books on this subject.

[Hagbard Celine]

Can anyone give me a general idea of how much to spend on cabinets for a kitchen that is approximately 10x10 feet? I ripped all the old stuff out, replaced the windows, tiled the floor and am now ripping the wall apart that separates the kitchen and the dining room to open up the space. I want to turn that area into a little countertop dining area, which should be easy enough. I know Home depot is doing a 10percent off sale with their cabinets, but I think you have to purchase a $100 "professional measurement" session to get the discount. Any advice?

[Mr. P]

Can anyone give me a general idea of how much to spend on cabinets for a kitchen that is approximately 10x10 feet? I ripped all the old stuff out, replaced the windows, tiled the floor and am now ripping the wall apart that separates the kitchen and the dining room to open up the space. I want to turn that area into a little countertop dining area, which should be easy enough. I know Home depot is doing a 10percent off sale with their cabinets, but I think you have to purchase a $100 "professional measurement" session to get the discount. Any advice?

Yep, be sure the wall you're removing is NOT a load bearing wall!!

[glockmail]

Can anyone give me a general idea of how much to spend on cabinets for a kitchen that is approximately 10x10 feet? I ripped all the old stuff out, replaced the windows, tiled the floor and am now ripping the wall apart that separates the kitchen and the dining room to open up the space. I want to turn that area into a little countertop dining area, which should be easy enough. I know Home depot is doing a 10percent off sale with their cabinets, but I think you have to purchase a $100 "professional measurement" session to get the discount. Any advice?

In short, no. Way too many variables.

Cabinets can be budgetted by the foot. Measure the total length of wall where they are going. Separate lengths for base and wall cabinets. Depot/ Lowes can then give a budget price for each cabinet line. To keep costs down, select a lower end line, and chose larger cabinets with shelves instead of drawers. Avoid wall cabinet crown and bottom trim.

These places always have stock cabinets at the back of the store. These are generally the low end cabinets with only a few lengths and minimal features. If you are satisfied with this cabinets, you can pick up a sheet of stock sizes and design your layout based on that. Draw up your layout on 1/4" scale using "quadrille" paper. You may also want to do elevations of each front.

Your next biggest cost is counter top- budget based on length, backsplash, and edge treatment. Granite is big now and prices have steadily declined. Your lowest cost will be formica in stock sizes. Again, if you can hold to what they have in stock, you will save money.

Lowes/ Depot have good buys in stock items. If you can go this route I suggest also shopping at "salvage" suppliers, as they generally have competing products at even better prices. These stores sometimes have something special that someone ordered and did not pick up. I've seen guys get great bargains this way, design their layout around the product, and end up with something very special.

If you have to go with ordered sizes, you should find out who the private dealers are that also sell the same cabinets. My last cabinet job I used KraftMaid cabinets, found all the dealers nearby through their web site, and took bids from local cabinet guys. I had a simple layout with clear plans and one guy gave me a discount of 68%, blowing Lowes out of the water.

[glockmail]

Yep, be sure the wall you're removing is NOT a load bearing wall!!
Sounds like he may have found out already. :laugh2:

Crash.

[Hagbard Celine]

Sounds like he may have found out already. :laugh2:

Crash.

Yes guys, I checked the basement to make sure it wasn't load-bearing before I tore it out. :laugh:

[Hagbard Celine]

I need a second opinion. The drain pipe for my kitchen sink (not the undersink p-trap plumbing but the old iron pipe in the wall that leads into the main drainage pipe for the house) is corroded. It has a thin bottom and already has a couple of holes. It's not feasible for me to replace the whole pipe because it's in a wall behind cabinets. I was planning to use a rubber plumbing bracket to just cover up the existing hole, however I'm afraid that this is only a temporary fix. My question is: Can I feed a drain hose through the old pipe to empty into the main pipe and just hook that up to the new undersink p-trap plumbing? I included a diagram if there is confusion.

[Mr. P]

I need a second opinion. The drain pipe for my kitchen sink (not the undersink p-trap plumbing but the old iron pipe in the wall that leads into the main drainage pipe for the house) is corroded. It has a thin bottom and already has a couple of holes. It's not feasible for me to replace the whole pipe because it's in a wall behind cabinets. I was planning to use a rubber plumbing bracket to just cover up the existing hole, however I'm afraid that this is only a temporary fix. My question is: Can I feed a drain hose through the old pipe to empty into the main pipe and just hook that up to the new undersink p-trap plumbing? I included a diagram if there is confusion.

Does the line to the kitchen screw into the main line?

[glockmail]

I need a second opinion. .....

Look at specialty connectors here: http://www.fernco.com/specialty.asp

These things are all rubber and attach to the OD of the pipe with stainless steel bands.

Maybe a drain trap connector would work if the existing stub is in good shape.

You you have to use a tee you might be able to make a slice in the back of the "riser" side, remove the bands, wrap it around then put the bands back on.

Or look here: http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pipe-repair.html for a saddle tee. For this you need a good clean hole in the riser pipe. If you don't have a "saws-all" by now then get one, and use a narrow blade for cutting steel, and cut a clean circular hole as best you can. The de-bur the edges with a grinder attached to an electric drill. Clean the outside of the pipe with a wire brush and grinder. Then apply a fat bead of silicone gasket cement, stick the saddle on and secure it with stainless steel pipe bands.

I'm sure theres a good plumbing supply shop near you that has all that stuff. You know the place with the counter service and stools, and won't tell you what the prices are until you give them your name. Don't bother with Lowes of Home Depot.

[Pale Rider]

Yes guys, I checked the basement to make sure it wasn't load-bearing before I tore it out. :laugh:

You really didn't need to worry about it unless it's a two story house anyway. Ceiling trusses should be able to support themselves and the sheet rock without anything holding them up their full span.

As far as cabinets, just go in and look at what you can buy on your budget. Buy what you can afford.

I think it's cool what your doing Hag. I've done a lot of this work myself. It's gratifying, not to mention all the sweat equity you're building for yourself.

How'd that robbery thing turn out?

[manu1959]

You really didn't need to worry about it unless it's a two story house anyway. Ceiling trusses should be able to support themselves and the sheet rock without anything holding them up their full span.


not quite true ..... some trusses are designed to have multiple support points .... and or the intermediate wall is also used to keep the truss from rotating ......

[Pale Rider]

not quite true ..... some trusses are designed to have multiple support points .... and or the intermediate wall is also used to keep the truss from rotating ......

Depends on the truss construction and span between the walls. If the wall Hag was tearing out was just a few feet long, I wouldn't have worried about it at all.

[manu1959]

Depends on the truss construction and span between the walls. If the wall Hag was tearing out was just a few feet long, I wouldn't have worried about it at all.

wood has a very good memory.....

[Pale Rider]

wood has a very good memory.....

True. That's why I like to work with metal. You can make all the mistakes you want and still fix it. With wood it's like, "damn... I cut it twice and it's still too short."

[Hagbard Celine]

You really didn't need to worry about it unless it's a two story house anyway. Ceiling trusses should be able to support themselves and the sheet rock without anything holding them up their full span.

As far as cabinets, just go in and look at what you can buy on your budget. Buy what you can afford.

I think it's cool what your doing Hag. I've done a lot of this work myself. It's gratifying, not to mention all the sweat equity you're building for yourself.

How'd that robbery thing turn out?

My homeowner's insurance covered me and I upgraded everything I had so I came out of it smelling like a rose. Here's what the kitchen used to look like:
http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v50/42/86/4919973/n4919973_33642622_3538.jpg
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v50/42/86/4919973/n4919973_33657081_3961.jpg
http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v50/42/86/4919973/n4919973_33642620_3202.jpg
Here's what it looks like now:
http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v150/42/86/4919973/n4919973_39596344_5601.jpg

[glockmail]

Where's the strippers gyrating around those poles? :cool:

[Kathianne]

Nice cookin' area! :cheers2: I'd dig that!

[Hagbard Celine]

Nice cookin' area! :cheers2: I'd dig that!

I've still got a lot of work to do before I can sell the place. I think I want to put vinyl soffit under all the eaves. It's about 150 feet of soffit all the way around. I need to fix the gutters. It still needs four new replacement windows on the front of the house. A lot of trim work, windows, toe molding. I need to refinish the den floor, paint the walls, install the washer/dryer in the basement, paint the doors. Increase the curb appeal. I've got a ton of stuff left to do, but I've already done a ton. It's difficult to get fam and friends to give up their weekends to help with stuff like that as you can probably imagine.

[glockmail]

I've still got a lot of work to do before I can sell the place. ..... It's difficult to get fam and friends to give up their weekends to help with stuff like that as you can probably imagine. Esp. when you plan on taking 100% of the profit. :poke:

[Hagbard Celine]

Esp. when you plan on taking 100% of the profit. :poke:

Haha, true. :laugh:

[Yurt]

Hagbard,

hows the house coming? is it stressful this time of year? or do you have people coming to help out? hope the holidays find you relaxing and enjoying yourself. you know, take the edge off.

Merry Christmas. :)

[Hagbard Celine]

Hagbard,

hows the house coming? is it stressful this time of year? or do you have people coming to help out? hope the holidays find you relaxing and enjoying yourself. you know, take the edge off.

Merry Christmas. :)

I finally got all the construction stuff out of my living room and bought a nice little tv table from Target. I set up my old kitchen cabinets in the basement as a nice little work bench and moved all my tools/building supplies down there. I even moved a used washer and dryer down there but I haven't hooked them up yet. I'm going to have to run wiring and ventilation for the dryer and since it's Christmas time money's tight so I haven't done it yet. With my kitchen fully functional it's really starting to look like a house though. I've been resting on my laurels for the past two weeks just enjoying coming home to a homey environment.
I'm still cleaning up shingles in my yard from the roofing project, but since the seasons changed it's been getting dark by the time I get home so that's been slow going. I went out there with a work light a couple times and got a little bit of it done but you can guess why I'm not gung-ho to get out there at night after working all day.
My next huge projects are refinishing the den/dining room wood floors and replacing the crappy old wood soffit with vinyl. Everything else is just painting/aesthetic stuff.
I'm almost there. So close I can taste it. :D

[Hagbard Celine]

Merry Christmas everyone! You won't hear from me again until Wednesday. I'm on call for the Christmas holiday covering CNN domestic, CNN Headline, CNN Airport, all the CNNi feeds and the CNN Espanol feeds so on Christmas morning when ya'll are opening presents pay attention to the news. If something is happening chances are I'll be here at work so think about me while you're opening gifts with your families :D Hopefully Kim Jong Il will keep his sh*t together for four days. Laters!

[glockmail]

I finally got all the construction stuff out of my living room and bought a nice little tv table from Target. I set up my old kitchen cabinets in the basement as a nice little work bench and moved all my tools/building supplies down there. I even moved a used washer and dryer down there but I haven't hooked them up yet. I'm going to have to run wiring and ventilation for the dryer and since it's Christmas time money's tight so I haven't done it yet. With my kitchen fully functional it's really starting to look like a house though. I've been resting on my laurels for the past two weeks just enjoying coming home to a homey environment.
I'm still cleaning up shingles in my yard from the roofing project, but since the seasons changed it's been getting dark by the time I get home so that's been slow going. I went out there with a work light a couple times and got a little bit of it done but you can guess why I'm not gung-ho to get out there at night after working all day.
My next huge projects are refinishing the den/dining room wood floors and replacing the crappy old wood soffit with vinyl. Everything else is just painting/aesthetic stuff.
I'm almost there. So close I can taste it. :D

You're going to love doing floors. :poke:

[Hagbard Celine]

You're going to love doing floors. :poke:

Yeah, I did the floors on the back side of the house already. They were easy because the stain was pretty far worn down. However, the den has a pretty thick coat of varnish on it. I did the back floors with just a gel stripper and a scraper tool. But the stain in the den is so thick I'm going to have to rent a drum sander to do it. I'm looking forward to it. :coffee:

[glockmail]

Yeah, I did the floors on the back side of the house already. They were easy because the stain was pretty far worn down. However, the den has a pretty thick coat of varnish on it. I did the back floors with just a gel stripper and a scraper tool. But the stain in the den is so thick I'm going to have to rent a drum sander to do it. I'm looking forward to it. :coffee:
That's good that you look at each room individually. Most folks just hire a crew to come in and sand off the top 1/8 inch or so of the whole house, starting with 40 grit sand paper. When I redid the floors in my old house in NY I cleaned then with mineral spirits, a wire brush and a dull screwdriver in the grooves, sanded with a random orbital and 220 grit, then applied two coats of satin polyurethane. When I got done they looked clean, newly finished but with that old patina that would have been destroyed if I had sanded the shit out of them.

[Yurt]

how is the house coming? told my wife about your project last month and she asked me to ask you.

oh yeah, i was born in wildwood, if you didn't already know.

she wants to see pics too. HGTV, she loves it.

[Hagbard Celine]

how is the house coming? told my wife about your project last month and she asked me to ask you.

oh yeah, i was born in wildwood, if you didn't already know.

she wants to see pics too. HGTV, she loves it.

The house is coming along nicely. My next big project is to refinish the floors in the living room/dining room to match the rest of the house. I'm staining them dark walnut.

Go to http://hagbardceline.myphotoalbum.com/ to see photos of the project.

[Hugh Lincoln]

It's a white thang:

http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.wordpress.com/2008/01/29/37-renovations/

[Hagbard Celine]

It's a white thang:

http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.wordpress.com/2008/01/29/37-renovations/

I read that blog everyday and everyday I see a little of myself in every post. I don't know if that's good or bad.

[Kathianne]

The house is coming along nicely. My next big project is to refinish the floors in the living room/dining room to match the rest of the house. I'm staining them dark walnut.

Go to http://hagbardceline.myphotoalbum.com/ to see photos of the project.

It's looking good! Seems you have a bit of help, feeding them out of a crockpot I see!

[glockmail]

I read that blog everyday and everyday I see a little of myself in every post. I don't know if that's good or bad.
It means that you like to build wealth instead of asking whitey to give it to you. :poke:

[Hagbard Celine]

It means that you like to build wealth instead of asking whitey to give it to you. :poke:

Well, seeing as how I am whitey, I don't really have anybody to ask for money. Gotta make it myself.

[gabosaurus]

I leave home renovating to those are experienced in that area.

[glockmail]

Well, seeing as how I am whitey, I don't really have anybody to ask for money. Gotta make it myself. You racist! :laugh2:

[Hagbard Celine]

I crawled up in my attic today and tied my attic fan into the grid. Whew! It had to be like 130 degrees F up there. I had to bring water up there with me because the sweat was just gushing out of me. I got her hooked up though--didn't take too long either. Just had to couple the wires, tack the wires up nice and neat and then feed it down into a hole I drilled, down through the wall and into the basement where I installed the breaker.

Works like a charm. :D

[glockmail]

I crawled up in my attic today and tied my attic fan into the grid. Whew! It had to be like 130 degrees F up there. I had to bring water up there with me because the sweat was just gushing out of me. I got her hooked up though--didn't take too long either. Just had to couple the wires, tack the wires up nice and neat and then feed it down into a hole I drilled, down through the wall and into the basement where I installed the breaker.

Works like a charm. :D
I just replaced one of mine, since the motor locked up after 15 years. I knew there was a problem because the room next to the attic stairs smelled like attic. I did the work at night to keep from getting heatstroke.

I hope you used romex wire to the unit, and not just staple on zip cord like my old man would do. Current codes also require a "disconnect" near the unit to allow servicing without having to go into another room to set a breaker (mine's a simple wall switch in the circuit, in a "blue box" nailed to an exposed framing member). Do you have a thermostat control on the unit or is it just always on?

[Hagbard Celine]

I just replaced one of mine, since the motor locked up after 15 years. I knew there was a problem because the room next to the attic stairs smelled like attic. I did the work at night to keep from getting heatstroke.

I hope you used romex wire to the unit, and not just staple on zip cord like my old man would do. Current codes also require a "disconnect" near the unit to allow servicing without having to go into another room to set a breaker (mine's a simple wall switch in the circuit, in a "blue box" nailed to an exposed framing member). Do you have a thermostat control on the unit or is it just always on?

Of course! "Romex SIMpull with patent pending SIM Jacket." :D I used 12/2 600v wire with a 20 amp breaker.

I didn't put any kind of switch on it, but I guess I could. I've got a couple of extra switch boxes lying around and I've got a box of light switches too. Think I should? It would be pretty simple to do I guess.

Yes, it has thermostat control attached to the unit. I set it on 95 degrees.

[glockmail]

Of course! "Romex SIMpull with patent pending SIM Jacket." :D I used 12/2 600v wire with a 20 amp breaker.

I didn't put any kind of switch on it, but I guess I could. I've got a couple of extra switch boxes lying around and I've got a box of light switches too. Think I should? It would be pretty simple to do I guess.

Yes, it has thermostat control attached to the unit. I set it on 95 degrees.

You da romex man!

I always recommend installing per latest code unless you can't. That way if you become a gazillionaire the guy and the guy that buys this house decides to elecute himslf he can't get some liberal pansy judge to screw you. :poke:

If you do put one in, you'll need to use a switch that can handle 20 amps, since you used a 20 amp breaker. Most wall switches are only 15.

[namvet]

Of course! "Romex SIMpull with patent pending SIM Jacket." :D I used 12/2 600v wire with a 20 amp breaker.

I didn't put any kind of switch on it, but I guess I could. I've got a couple of extra switch boxes lying around and I've got a box of light switches too. Think I should? It would be pretty simple to do I guess.

Yes, it has thermostat control attached to the unit. I set it on 95 degrees.


don't forget to upgrade to the Binford man's kitchen

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